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Terry's Layout
starfire700:
The wire connectors are a good idea. As my layout benchwork is at 30", I have only done temporary wiring so far.
I also collect the Madison items, have the 637, 617 and a maroon 1691 type diner.
I have the 1717 gondola, floodlight and flatcar variations, a 653 hopper body only, others, I will have to check (all flat black). I never saw a caboose for the series. I will post some pix in the collectibles area. I assume that a 1684 would be the right loco to make a set with these, possibly a 229.
Terry:
I liked the dull black 258E late body loco with a 1689T with rubber stamped Lionel Lines on the side for the madison wartime stuff.
This week's progress on the layout isn't as dramatic, but from here it will start going fast.
I solved the ground problem with a jumper. The no current on the line for + to the streetlights on the north side problem can't be solved. It's broken somewhere under the layout and the wires are cable tied so they don't move. There are not very many streetlamps so I just have both sides on the same circuit. The houses are on two circuits.
The wires for the houses are in and working. I taped them down with duct tape so I don't get them screwed up when I build the mountain.
I started on the mountian. I cut the styrofoam to fit, and then glue it down. I use the hot wire coping saw to cut angles so I get more bonding surface. Hot melt glue works great, I also bought some glue in caulking tubes that say it bonds in 30 seconds, but it doesn't hold in the curves. The hot melt glue holds when held in place for about 2 minutes.
I need to laminate the sheets along the verticle edge and then carve them down because the run isn't straight. It will look better this way.
Here's what it looks like with about 10 feet glued on, but needing carving before coating with plaster:
The blue sheets don't bend, but are more stable for poking the bases of trees so I have that on the upper flatter areas.
I have a nice selection of mountaireering tools:
From the left are five different Hot Wire Foam Factory tools and the power supply. The different pointed irons have different heads and the power supply allows me to regulate the heat so I can make different sized grooves and voids.
I haven't used these in over 20 years, but I do remember that the plaster requires larger cuts than you expect.
The two irons on the right came with trains I bought and might work to make interesting voids. I think they are actually for sealing shrink wrap. I'll see what I can do with them.
I also have a table and a bunch of other hand tools, but the table isn't "handy," and the other tools duplicate what is there. I had a Woodland Scenics coping saw type hadn tool, but gave it away. The Woodland scenics cutter has a trigger and doesn't stay hot. Everytime you use it you have to hold the trigger down for about a minute before you can start cutting.I don't like that.
Not shown are Silicone Rubber sheets to rest the tools on when they are hot. They are actually hot pads from kitchen supply. You can soldier on them and the heat will not go through to the other side.
starfire700:
I have never used the hot wire cutters. I am not sure if I will have a mountain or not on my new layout. Any embankments or other topography will be accomplished with spray foam and real local rocks.
Terry:
My mountain is there because I won't run tracks where I can't reach them so I'd just put houses there anyway.
The mountain will hold the houses and block the two sides so the layout is more interesting. I have boxes of trees to cover the mountain with.
Here's where I'm at now. I got the sheet of particle board free at home depot. That will be a marsh area.
The areas with gentle slopes get a nylon fabric dunked in colored plaster over them. The fabric keeps it from cracking, and the foam underneath provides anchor points for the trees.
The more verticle areas will be carved to look like cliffs or stonework. Some of those won't be visible as they are behind trees.
We had our first week of 110+ degree weather so I'm spending the days in the basement.
starfire700:
I have also learned that a layout has to be designed so all critical areas can be reached. I have only a few areas that will be difficult and will also only place accessories in those locations that will require no attention. My yard area, which requires the most attention, is a 5' wide peninsula, so all areas of it are easily accessible. I will post some progress photos soon.
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