Track Cleaning?

[pjdog350]

What do you all do to keep your track clean.

I got a new (Used) 2026 that has been giving me fits? I’ve had it apart many times in the last three days trying to find out why it can’t seem to run smooth. It’s super jerky! Sometimes just stops! This morning after another tear down and reassembly I finally looked at the track as the new slide shoes can’t make a full lap around the layout. The center rail has a thick black covering on it. I normally use lighter fluid. Seems to work but the black stuff was putting up a good fight. I used wet dry very fine sand paper with oil. Got it off then cleaned the track again with lighter fluid.

Now the 2026 runs like new. I remember when I first started restoring the 1700’s I had to clean the track allot. Engines that use slide shoes seem to require allot more track maintains.

So - The 2026 was good as new I was just looking at the wrong thing for the solution. Track problem not the new 2026. Think I’ll mention that the new 2026 had a big piece of lead up inside the casting. I was real surprised to find that. I’ll weigh the casting with and then with out the lead and post the results? I think the person that had this engine before me wanting more pulling power. So they added lead. The 2026 is a poor puller.

[starfire700]

Keeping track and wheels clean is a necessary evil, especially when running long trains. I spend hours cleaning car and loco wheels in prep for a video, also don't forget a small drop of oil on the axles. On postwar wheels 1 drop per wheel works, but since prewar wheels are mostly hollow, that is 2 drops per wheel, 16 drops per car.....time consuming, but pays-off in improved performance.
Now for track, the black gunk builds-up no matter how clean you keep the wheels. I wipe the areas I can reach with alcohol, isopropyl not Jack Daniels, and put a cloth on a yard stick for the harder to reach areas.
You can do a certain amount of track cleaning while operating with a track cleaning car. Lionel's 3927 may work on a small layout, but is inadequate for larger pikes.
I have several TC cars made by Centerline products, purchased about 20 years ago, so not sure if still in business. It is a heavy bronze block, hollow in center and trucks mounted to the ends, comes with MPC era trucks. There is a roller, similar to a small paint roller with caps on the ends that drops into the center well. You fill the roller with nuts/bolts or small rocks so it bounces around and add some track cleaner or alcohol (not lighter fluid.... too dangerous) to outside and push it around.
I modified a beater 2812 gondola, as shown so I have a "prewar" track cleaning car. A Marx generator and plastic tank are added just for looks. It works fairly well.

[starfire700]

I just did a Bing search and found Centerline track cleaners in multiple gauges available, but judging from prices, must be on the aftermarket. Also other simpler ones, such as a pad in a stick.
Bottom line, is keep your track clean and you will have better performance on your layout and will keep wheels on your rolling stock cleaner.

[pjdog350]

Thanks for that information Jim. I have Lionel track cleaning car but it’s almost useless. I normally use a Micro cloth and lighter fluid. I’ll give the alcohol a try. Canadian Mist is my choice But I’ll try isopropyl as I have that.

Did watch you ‘Dog town’  several  times. Have a bid in on a couple dog house’s. I have seen that video before but now that I’ve gotten to know your layout better the movie meant more to me!

[CNJRR]

When you use sandpaper you are doing more damage to the track then good. You are taking off some of the metal plating on the track, and your track will get dirtier faster.
I use green Scotch brite pads along with 200 proof alcohol. Yes drinking alcohol. I have samples from work.
If you can find 99% isopropanol that is good, the other 1% is water. The 91% isopropanol, which you should find in the store, is 9% water that is good to use too.
Some isopropanol's are denatured and label at 71%, the rest are solvents of different sorts, I would stay away from them.
I have a good supply of chemicals as I hauled most of them throughout the years.

[pjdog350]

I have heard that before about sand paper before. I think I have Scotch bride pads.

Thanks for your help. I’ve been sanding the MTH track for 20 years so it’s probably already screwed!

[starfire700]

Right, sanding is bad, also because it leaves grit that can be picked up and contributes to the black build-up on top of the rails.
I have used fine grit sandpaper on the railheads of T-rail, but only to remove rust. Since there is no plating on T-rail / solid rail, no harm is done. Also have only used it on individual sections on the bench, not on the layout.

[pjdog350]

I have the scotch brute pads and 100 proof. I’ll give that a try later tonight. Thanks!!

[pjdog350]

Leaned the track with 100 proof and scotch brite. Work great but I did have to wipe with clean cloth after the scotch brite.

[Terry]

I use dry scotchbrite pads. If I need moisture I use "SAFE FOR PLASTIC" electrical parts cleaner.

The centerline units are nice, but I sold mine after seeing  it would bring $100 on eBay. Any of the 3800 series operating car frames have a hole in them big enough for a trim roller which any home depot or ace will sell for a few dollars.

Also Aristocraft made a slider thing for their outdoor G trains. You can put a scotchbroght pad on it. I have one to put under a Standard gauge car. I'll post pictures when it gets more tidy downstairs.

[starfire700]

I morphed the Centerline unit with a 2812 because I had several of the track cleaners that I got cheap. If you use a 3811 chassis and a paint roller you still need weight for the car and especially caps for the ends of the roller pad, so the necessary weight inside stays-put. I was wondering what I would do when I run out of clean rollers, because finding a suitable end-cap is the issue.
You are right, they are expensive to buy now that they are only available on the aftermarket.

[Terry]

Miles bought the caps somewhere and so I have lots of extras. I built a hi-rail layout for Miles and sold his trains for his wife when he passed, and ended up with what I wanted. I think they are just caps that came from the hardware store, but Miles was really into sourcing from Grainger, so they might be the answer.

Years ago, I took my cleaner over to clean track at a freind's house. I told him to spray the roller with electrical parts cleaner and put it in front of an engine. The couplers didn't match his new locos. It ignited a 16 foot section of track becaue he used flammable cleaner.

He grabbed a fire extinguisher which I knocked it out of his hands and told him to get more towels. We blotted the fire out with towels.

I NEVER buy flammible parts cleaner, so I didn't think to tell him to check.

That was the second fire and the second time I knocked a fire extingushers out of Thom's hands to avoid the mess the spray would make. The first time was a Marx radio tower that ignited when I wired it up. It had dust and leaves inside it.

[starfire700]

The only time I had a fire on a layout was when still living with parents. I had an N gauge layout and lit the trestle on fire, because I thought it would look cool. I was in my teens and dib not know any better. Knock on wood, never had a fire since.

[cndctr111]

I have made my own 100% alcohol by using a method brought about by Ben from Benz trains, he used to be on YouTube but is now on Rumble. If you have the cheaper alcohol, 70-91%, put some in a jigger and add salt. Shake it around very well and set it down, the salt pulls all the water in and settles at the bottom, you then take a syringe or pipet tool and suck out everything at the top, it's pure alcohol because all the water settled in the salt below. It works, Ive tried it. Care must be taken not to accidentally suck up the wet salted solution that settles below the good stuff.

[Terry]

Here's an article in the LA club newsletter about cleaning track. Starts on page 4.

http://ttos-sw.org/newsletters/SWD%20Limited%20Jan%20Feb%20Mar%202020.pdf